The Eyebrow: Adventures Into the Rugged

"You might as well build a railroad across the Devil's eyebrow…". That's what a settler told the Frisco Railroad in 1880, regarding a particularly rugged piece of property in eastern Benton County that they were surveying. The name stuck and today, the land is part of Devil's Eyebrow Natural Area, an Arkansas Natural Heritage Commission property; among the most rugged places in the Ozark Mountains. It's places like this that a person has to have a sort of grit or craze about them to travel through…maybe a little of both. This natural area is fairly new, but is already renowned for its rare plants and beautiful scenery. Today was the second time I had the chance to go down into the natural area with a fellow photographer and it's always very rewarding…despite the fact that each time we've spent the first 30 minutes trying to figure out where the trail is! I think I've finally gotten it figured out. The key here is to be away from the trail, but that exact route is top secret.

Common Green Darner (Anax junius)

The trail leaves the field where you park and, for several hundred yards, follows a logging road flat and easy through the woods. After this it begins to gently slope down and quickly, BAM, there goes the road, dropping steep into a narrow valley below. All the way down, this stretch is littered with rocks and fresh asters. The morning sun was shining warm for several dragonflies that cruised the area, looking for breakfast.

At the bottom, the road crosses a creek and winds around the base of a ridge. But for those adventurous at heart, what good is a road? Leaving it, we began following one of the creeks through the area. Creek walking isn't usually easy going, especially when the bottom is slick bedrock like at Devil's Eyebrow. It made perfect habitat for great blue lobelia, though. One of my fall favorites. Their deep violet blooms were covered in tiny dew droplets, winking at us as we passed. The lobelia was very common on our hike; I couldn't complain. We eventually made it to a fork in the creek where one branch took a violent turn into incredibly potholed bedrock. An artifact of thousands of years of water eating away at weaker limestone, no doubt. Using my imagination, I was able to picture the cascades of water the potholes would create if there had been any running.

Continuing on, we were greeted by several hummingbirds sipping from perfect, bright orange jewelweed blooms. A fight ensued as we passed through and they parted to let us go on. Slipping and sliding around another few turns brought us to the holy grail for the day, one of those Devil's Eyebrow rarities botanists speak so highly of. This one in particular was ovate-leaf catchfly, with a feathery and exotic-looking flower. Yet another creation that is as close to perfection as things get here on Earth.

Ovate-leaf Catchfly (Silene ovata)

This plant, and many others, speak highly of "the Eyebrow's" unpolished hills, hollers, and near pristine habitat. The major creeks here end at inlets of the mighty Beaver Lake. One can only imagine what it would have been like farther down had the White River never been dammed, but Northwest Arkansas has to have water, don't they?

It wasn't far past the catchfly that we turned around to head back out. Getting in is the easy part since it's all down hill! Hours later and half way out the sun finally made an appearance in that narrow canyon that made our day. Despite a cool start to the morning, butterflies began to show themselves in the sun; including an Eastern Tailed-Blue that gave us long looks at its upper wings…a rare occurrence any time. These dime-sized butterflies are well worth a closer look.

Rare View: E. Tailed-Blue (Cupido comyntas)

As we hoofed it up the final hill, a Gemmed Satyr graced us with its near presence, and like raccoons with shiny things, the photographers stopped to gawk. Satyrs and close looks don't often go together, so one must take their chances as they come. It may take some inspection on an otherwise brown small flying thing, but you will eventually see where they get their name and it can stand out like the finest silver.

Gemmed Satyr (Cyllopsis gemma)

Another morning and about three miles to the south, I find myself at the base of Whitney Mountain, one of those rare Cerulean Warbler habitats, but for that I'm over a month too late. As the fog keeps rolling through, I'm here to photograph pale jewelweed, not the orange, spotted jewelweed of Devil's Eyebrow. A pretty good patch grows at the base of a bluff near the road, indicative of a damp habitat. Its cornucopia-shaped blooms are completely yellow with fine red spots on the inside. Its namesake are the leaves that have tiny, water-repelling hairs that cause water to bead up and roll right off, but the flowers must be part of the story too.

Pale Jewelweed (Impatiens pallida)

As I pull myself away from this crisp roadside oasis, I feel refreshed in both mind and body. Shutting the car door, I hear what's sure to be the last Hooded Warbler song of the season and my mind wanders north, across several valleys and back to Devil's Eyebrow. The preservation of places like this is vital, especially in an ever-growing Northwest Arkansas. We don't do great in many aspects, but here we aren't doing too bad at all.

Great Blue Lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica)

For more photos from these two trips, visit www.pbase.com/mpruitt/recents

In The Final Days of Summer: Blooms

Many who know me also know that I am not just a birder. It's true that's how it ALL got started, but birding was only the gateway (Only is a strong word, so I should note that birds continue to be my main forte). With birds came photography and with photography came an interest in most things nature, which can be a bit overwhelming at times. For me, I would say that second behind birding (and wildlife photography), falls wildflower photography. A lot can be learned about an ecosystem by the plants that are found there, even more so than the birds in many instances; and when a plant comes with a fancy flower, I'm all over it. Even the simple ones are nice for a change, too.

A fairly simple woodland sunflower oasis. Mt. Magazine State Park, AR.

In Arkansas, the wildflower season kicks off in mid to late March with white trout lilies (E. albidum) ringing in the spring with their immaculately arched petals. Things really get going by mid-April and only get better through May, when the forest floor is a carpet of color. The rush slopes off after that and trickles through the middle of summer. Don't get me wrong, summer is when you can see some of Arkansas' most impressive blooms, but it's not quite as hot-and-heavy as it was weeks earlier. By the middle of August through much of September, the flowers pick up once more; just in time to say goodbye before the cold hits. To know the ins-and-outs of wildflowers, one must understand that it's all relative. Sometimes winter runs a little over and things are late, some years it's just the opposite. Spring 2014 was one of the years where things were behind…almost two weeks, but then we get one of those baking summers that puts things back in their proper order. And back in order they are. As I write, all those umpteen different species of goldenrods are blooming or getting ready to. Right on schedule. (As is the infamous ragweed, *cough, cough*).

Tall Green Milkweed (Asclepias hirtella)

Hmm. Favorites of the season, you ask? Well, I'll start with the milkweeds, always a favorite group of mine. (The new atlas to Arkansas' vascular plants lists 16 species of milkweeds). New to me this year, and getting an easy one out of the way, is tall green milkweed. I've never met a milkweed I didn't like and this one standing at nearly 4' tall, with its green blooms and maroon accents, is no exception.




From there, I'll go to another favorite: northern swamp milkweed. This species is listed at an S2 status for the state (meaning it is rare) and is tracked by the Arkansas Natural Heritage Commission. A few counties in northern Arkansas mark part of the southern range limit for this striking plant. In NW Arkansas it can be found in several places ranging from restored prairies and fallow fields that once were prairies, to unmowed ditches.

N. Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)

As for more season favorites, I'll have to delve into orchids now. Orchids aren't just late summer bloomers, there's always some species to be found throughout spring, summer, and fall. Orchids have a special place in my world because, well, I like rare things in nature and there aren't many orchids in Arkansas to be considered common. A 1993 book by Carl Slaughter documents about 40 species of orchids in the state. Most can be found somewhere today, one was based on a specimen collected in the late 19th century and hasn't been seen since, and yet another has one small population left. The book doesn't list locations by any means and this information is hard to get from those who do know. Wildflowers aren't like birds, they can't fly off if someone comes for them. Many of our wildflowers, orchids especially, are subject to poaching which is unfortunate. It's what makes many of them so rare; not to mention very specific habitat requirements in some instances. So needless to say, tight lips are common when dealing with certain wildflowers. This also means that much of the good stuff is in the middle of NOWHERE, down the road to NOWHERE, near NOWHERE, far form EVERYWHERE.  Earlier in August, I was fortunate to get to see one of our least common orchids, the purple fringeless orchid. Now THIS is one to drool over and another S2 with the ANHC. My plant sat alone in the midst of bottomland hardwood forest in northeast Arkansas. It was hot and humid going, but well worth it in the end; even if it was for just a single plant.

Purple Fringeless Orchid (Platanthera peramoena)

Yet another stunner, that was high on my list of desirables this year was the yellow fringed orchid. Words cannot even describe this plant and the fact that there were over 25 individuals at the location. Even after just one I already had a crazed smile on my face, my fearless guide can attest to that. To set the scene, these 25 were found in open woods along a small creek that is associated with a large seep…perfect habitat. Our state's orchids vary greatly in size and stature and this must be one of the tallest. Some plants stood at nearly three feet tall, with heads chock-full of blooms that are really orange rather than yellow. This was a three mile round-trip plant and I'd be tempted to do it every day if I lived closer to 'em!

Yellow-fringed Orchid (Platanthera ciliaris)

Orchids can be hard to catch blooming. You almost have to know when a certain population has bloomed in years past. As a general rule (unless winter runs over in the spring) orchids bloom at on or around the same date every year. It's about as close to clockwork as Mother Nature gets. Some species with ascending blooms, like many of the Platanthera genus, will have a few day period where all the blooms are opening, working their way up the stalk. Then there may be one day of perfection, where all the blooms are open and looking good, though you can't be too picky or you'll miss it altogether!

Three Birds Orchid (Triphora trianthophora)

Some species, however, are one-day wonders or less in several instances. One of these one-day wonders is the three birds orchid. This was another species high up on my list late this summer and an even harder one to catch in bloom. At a maximum of 6" tall, this tiny plant sports an even tinier flower; one that could be hidden behind a penny. The blooms are in tip-top photographic state for no more than a day. The particular population I visited had 15 plants and we were too late for all but three perfect blooms. The word 'miracle' comes to mind when I see this flower. How can something so small be so perfect?

A favorite orchid genus of mine is Spiranthes. Their flowers are arranged in a spiral up the stalk, an incredible feat in itself, and can be found throughout the growing season in Arkansas. There are 11 species in the state, several of which are late summer bloomers, all of which look nearly identical. On the same trip as the yellow fringed orchid, a nice population of Spiranthes tuberosa was found…double whammy! This guy has no leaves at bloom time, no color to the inside of the bloom, and is not fragrant. All of these qualities lead to it's identification.

Little Ladies'-Tresses Orchid (Spiranthes tuberosa)

Orchids are mysterious and complex, which is what draws me to them. I've made it seem like there can be some amount of certainty sometimes, but I'll go ahead and debunk that idea. Though some species may bloom near the same time every year, others may bloom one season and then be done for years. They're one of life's great mysteries and only God knows how to predict these secret and most perfect plants. Again, mystery in nature is what I like to see. The best things don't come easy and I wouldn't call any time you have to go on an extended hike during an Arkansas August easy. It keeps things spicy and I like spicy.

In the Final Days of Summer: Birds

It seems like forever since I've written anything for posting, but it sure has been busy! The final days of summer have been a "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" kind of thing for me, with school starting back, birding trips, family trips, and more on my plate than I should probably have, but I love every bit of it. My August wrapped up with several good trips squeezed into a week's time before school started. Before the bird talk starts, here's a shot from a hiking trip during this time period. Several friends and I clocked nearly 15 miles along the Buffalo River in Newton County, AR.

Early morning along the Buffalo at Steel Creek Campground.

Another trip was across state to Bald Knob National Wildlife Refuge. A funny name, I know, but don't be too quick to laugh! This refuge sits in eastern White County, AR and has a special place in every birder's heart here…especially if you're into shorebirds and waders.

An eastern Arkansan by birth, but now situated in the hilly northwest, I don't get to the refuge near as much as I used to. However, a special trip was made this year by several northwestern buddies and I. They had never been to the refuge. To be at Bald Knob for the day's prime time, we had to leave our cooler northwest during the early hour of 4:00am. It was rough, but we trooped along and 4 hours later made it to the refuge that has made birding history several times over in the state. As the morning progressed, so did the heat (I believe it was 101° when we left that afternoon). We, along with many other birders, stuck it out for the better part of the day. Our group of three counted 39 species, including 17 species of shorebird. That's pretty good considering we weren't on either the taiga or the coast and it was only late August. Still, those hundreds of individual birds we saw that day weren't anything like the thousands the refuge is known for producing on a REALLY good day. Matter of fact, as I write this, there are 4 Roseate Spoonbills, 2 Hudsonian Godwits, and a Piping Plover sitting among hundreds more at the refuge. It's funny how standards can change when you live in different parts of such a diverse state as Arkansas. In the northwest, even these hundreds of birds (that were few for BKNWR) would be darn near impossible…there's just no habitat for it!

Among the best birds were Black-bellied Plover, Western Sandpiper, Stilt Sandpiper, and both Long-billed and Short-billed Dowitchers. Unfortunately the BBPL was WAY out on one of the mudflats so no photos of this striking and uncommon fall migrant. Many more birds were at close range, though. Here are a few to tickle your fancy: 

Western Sandpiper (Calidris mauri)

Compare the Western to its doppelgänger cousin, the Semipalmated Sandpiper below. At first glance, they're the same bird, but wait…look closer. Check out the difference in the bills! It really is striking. The Western has that long, thick-based, decurved bill, while the Semipalmated has one that is comparatively shorter and stubbier. That wasn't so hard, right?

Semipalmated Sandpiper (Calidris pusilla)

You wouldn't know it from this photo, but the Semipalmated Sandpiper is named for the partial webbing it has between the toes. Moving on.

Short-billed Dowitcher (Limnodromus griseus)

To many birders, shorebirds are just downright intimidating, but over time one learns to cope; not just cope, but master. Hear that? Shorebirds don't scare me. Gulls, on the other hand, give me chills.

Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularia). A not-so-spotted juvenile.

Moving forward a day, I'm back in Northwest Arkansas and out with a birder from the central part of the state. Our goal for the morning was to find him a Swainson's Hawk for his AR list. This was a species I saw in Benton County way back in 2011 during my state big year, but I hadn't seen one since. I'm not around for much of the breeding season in their extremely limited range in the state and I figured we'd be lucky to see one at all. We sat at a podunk Benton County crossroads for half an hour, scanning the treeline in all directions for the striking raptor with no luck. Vultures upon vultures. Patience running thin, the decision was made to drive south from the intersection. Rounding a line of trees, we saw a buteo sitting in a snag. A look in the scope showed its backside, but it was a promising backside! It looked over its shoulder just long enough for us to see a possible white throat. It was a juvenile, but almost surely a Swainson's. Jumping back into the car and speeding off, we headed west on a dirt road to State Line Road; of Oklahoma, that is.

We stopped about 100 yards short of where we thought the snag was and walked…more like stalked…or crawled. Either way, we made it to the bird and I'll be darned if it wasn't on the lucky Arkansas side of the road! Both being photographers, we took photos. Eventually it decided it was done playing and took off to make several low passes over us and the road, officially making it an Arkhoma Swainson's Hawk.

Swainson's Hawk (Buteo swainsoni)

As a birder and a Christian, here at the eastern frontier of a Swainson's Hawk's range, I can't help but know that our creator has a hand in all I see. Especially out in nature, it's back to the basics. Do we as birders sometimes have to bust our butts (literally and figuratively) to find something we're looking for? The answer would be a resounding yes, but I suppose it's all in the plan. This Swainson's was an easy bag compared to some, but if we saw all the awesome critters of the Earth easily, all at once, what fun would be left for later? I like for things to stay spicy.

Swainson's Hawk.

Going back to the ID of this bird, pay particular attention to the "hooded" appearance that will be even more obvious in an adult. As with the bird in flight, note the bicolored wings; a dead giveaway.

Fall migration is ramping up here in the Natural State. Birds like this Swainson's Hawk are headed for warmer climes, though with our temperatures they may as well stay a spell longer. The Scissor-tailed Flycatchers (and their Stubby-tailed juveniles), among others, have been spotted facing the setting sun. Are they simply taking in the majesty or gathering all that mind-boggling navigation info to shove off sometime in the night? I vote the latter. One might ask, is it really time for them to go? Even just a few rungs down the latitude ladder? The happy House Wren seems to think so. They must've read the almanac.

House Wren, Woolsey Wet Prairie, Fayetteville, AR